Dungeness
Organic Produce
november
28, 2003, Sequim WA
by Johanne Pelletier
pictures available soon
Agriculture
was at the heart of the conflict that led to a failure of the WTO
(World Trade Organization) conferences in Cancun this fall (10-14
of September 2003). In the United States as well, some farmers disagree
with the subsidies that are accorded to large agro-businesses in their
country. In fact, Nash and his team from Dungeness Farms promote a
completely different type of agriculture: local, organic, sustainable,
and more human. In a little farm near Sequim on Washington State’s
Olympic Peninsula, we met with people who do much more than grow the
best carrots in the world. Here cultivation is local, and exists in
continuous resistance to residential development and artificially
lowered prices.
The
local economy, which was for the most part agricultural, began to
change 40 to 50 years ago and farmers began to see a decrease in revenue.
As a result, young people coming out of high school were not encouraged
to continue on with the family tradition largely because their parents
no longer had the ability to make a decent living in agriculture.
These changes, felt all over the country, were caused by the Green
Revolution that encouraged agriculture on a larger-scale.
More
recently, because of a climate that is dryer and sunnier than the
rest of western Washington, the region became a very popular retirement
destination. Consequently, residential development began to encroach
upon the area’s rich farmland bringing with it higher real estate
prices.
Nash
Huber, a farmer of considerable originality, is devoted to organic
farming and has been developing production in the delta over the last
25 years. When the local economy ceased to support the price of prime
organic food, or even to support a local gardener, Nash made the decision
to expand his operation to the market level. He began to sell in higher
quantities in Seattle in order to survive as a farmer. By augmenting
production levels, he felt that he would be able to achieve higher
goals: preserving farmland under cultivation, involving more people
in the project, creating employment and passing on knowledge of the
earth.
PCC
Farmland Fund – Citizens saving farmland
As Nash’s farm grew to attain a higher market level, his main
seller, the carrot, was all the rage at the Puget Consumer’s
Co-op Natural Markets (PCC), a Seattle area cooperative. Unable to
respond to the demand, he approached the co-op and encouraged them
to involve their members in farmland protection and to support their
local suppliers. Because agriculture as they practice it isn’t
lucrative enough for farmers to buy more land, a way needed to be
found to help them increase their production and meet the demand.
It
was a significant initiative for PCC to start off the Farmland Fund.
With aims towards conservation, the Farmland Fund has become a non-profit
organization that buys land and places it under a conservation easement
in order to save it from development forever. The organization then
leases the land to farmers who wish to cultivate it. This allows local
farmers to expand their operations while protecting fertile farmland
from the urban sprawl.
A
local project: Community Supported Agriculture
A few years ago, Dungeness Farms began a community supported agriculture
program for residents in and around Sequim. This initiative furnishes
members with quality produce while involving them in the protection
of farmland. Individuals wishing to partake in a diversity of veggies
all year round are required to pay the yearly amount in advance which
obliges them to respect their commitment while helping the farm survive.
More than eighty families are now members and their commitment is
helping save land in the valley. Every week, the farm gives out a
newsletter that talks about the farm, gives seasonal recipe ideas,
and offers health tips. The head farmer and his team also offer farm
visits and organize a local country fair once a year. These activities
allow people to make the connections between what they eat and their
environment and help them reconnect with the earth. Through their
weekly box of produce they also follow the rhythm of the seasons.
The face-to-face interaction that the community project involves creates
a more human relationship between the farm workers and the people
of the community.
Organic
culture, from the bottom to the top of the food chain
Organic farming can be seen as being divided into different levels
of operation, from the small farm where everything is done by hand
to highly mechanized agricultural operations. Dungeness Organic Farms
sits somewhere between the two. The farm employs up to twenty workers
and from 6 to 8 in the off-season near the month of March. Nash and
his team use tractors and other machinery mostly in order to avoid
spending the majority of their time in the fields with a hoe. In fact,
what remains a problem to be dealt with are the ever-present insects
and plant sicknesses. The toolbox that they have available to regulate
the problem has a very limited capacity as they are confined to natural
methods with the lowest possible toxicity.
According to Scott, who carries some responsibility on the farm, organic
production on a large scale has important and non-negligible impacts.
From an ecological point of view, the monocrops with their lack of
diversity have negative effects on the soil and its biodiversity,
which doesn’t necessarily support a sustainable agricultural
system. From an economic point of view, large-scale operations make
prices fall, for one because the organic agro-industry is eligible
for agricultural subsidies. Smaller operations don’t have the
time or the money to fill the numerous requirements associated with
subsidy applications. These subsidies are therefore a keystone in
the disappearance of small-scale farms everywhere.
Everything
starts with a single seed…
For a few years now Dungeness Farms has been producing their own seed
in reaction to their suppliers thinning resources and the disappearance
of certain varieties from the market. Nash and his team see this as
an alarming characteristic of modern agriculture. According to what
they say, many disappearing types of seed are heritage varieties that
are a result of centuries of selection, and should be preserved for
future generations.
In the end, Nash and his whole team dedicate themselves with passion
to the preservation of agricultural land under cultivation and to
the revival of the rural community. They offer quality organic veggies
that are heritage varieties, kept alive for our children. With their
overflowing energy and a thousand future projects, we can be sure
that the seeds they plant will flourish.
Dungeness
Organic Produce
1865 E. Anderson Rd.
Sequim, WA 98382
PCC
Farmland Fund
4201 Roosevelt Way NE
Seattle, WA 98105
Ph: (206)-547-1222
e-mail: farmlandfund@pccsea.com
website : www.pccnaturelmarkets.com/info/farmland.html
Translated
by Francis Murchison